Spool Gray
6.0L Powerstroke Power Lag, Sometimes!!?
I have an 04 F-250 PS with the 6.0L. Sometimes it will run GREAT and sometimes it will run a little sluggish. Almost like the turbo isn't spooling like it should. The truck only has 45k on the odometer. These arent rebuilt miles, these are actual ones. The truck gets driven, but not hard and not for long periods of time. Mostly to and from work, thats it. I have done research and people say it could be a sticking EGR Valve, but the truck does not have any check engine lights on in the dash. Also, some say it could be that the Veins in the Turbo are sticking because of sut. If anyone knows of an easy way to check these out or a simple way to troubleshooot the two, please let me know. The truck does not pour out black, grey or white smoke at all. Maybe a little when I stand on it, which I never do. The only time I have ever seen any smoke is when I first start it up in the morning but that could be because it is 10 degrees or less in the morning.
I would look in to the EGR valve and then Turbo Vanes next. The driven not hard or long can cause soot buildup because the exhaust isn't getting hot enough to burn some of it out. Load it up, hammer it every once in awhile when getting on the interstate, get your EGTs up some to help burn that crap off! Seriously, they were made to pull trailers their entire life, and yours barely hits operating temp.
EGR Valve: You can unplug the valve and it will not throw a code.It is in the center part of the block (left to right) at the top and front. It is about 2.5" wide, black plastic, and the connection is on top. Simply unplug it. See if that helps any, I doubt it will but worth a try.
Turbo Vanes: I had mine stick 'shut' causing an over-boost condition, so I never could get up to highway speeds (engine would defuel). I'm convinced it was rust because of the way they looked and the truck had sat for a couple months in the weather. Yours may be sticking open, so you have a harder time spooling the turbo. You can pull your turbo at home and clean them yourself if you have a half decent amount of tools and 1/2 a day to do it. A 3/8" universal joint will come in handy, you will need deep sockets, and though not required some ratcheting combo-wrenches (metric) will make this a quicker job.
Remove intake plumbing from filter to turbo, and from turbo to intercooler. Disconnect the oil line on top of the turbo. Remove exhaust clamps from exhaust inlet and outlet (they are hard to get to). There are 3 bolts that hold the turbo on the mounting pedestal; all 3 are on the exhaust side if I remember correctly I am sure that 2 of them are). The turbo pedestal is held to the motor with 4 bolts (vertical), they are easier to get to but don't do it you can't pull the turbo and pedestal as one, I've tried).
Once you get the 3 bolts removed you will be able to jiggle the turbo but it will be hard to remove because of the exhaust plumbing. Pull HARD up and toward the passenger headlight and it will come out.
Remove the v-clamp around the exhaust housing, then using a paint pen mark the two halves prior to separation so that they can be matched for alignment purposes when you put it back together. Hammer and brass to pop the housing apart, not too hard use good judgment.
Now you will see the Unison Ring over the vanes on one half. Remove the unison ring and check for any cracks and clean with a scotch-brite pad. You can pull each vane and scrub it as well and the face that they slide on so that all is smooth. There is a TSB from Ford that talks about not attempting to clean rust and to replace the turbo; "YEAH RIGHT"!!!!
Have fun lining up all the vanes so that you can install the Unison Ring, line up your paint marks on the housing and install the v-clamp, cuss at the exhaust from the manifolds because it is in the way (a ratchet strap on the exhaust pipe to give you more room to install is a wise choice). Then connect everything else.
It took me about half a day to do this. The second time I pulled the turbo (EGR Cooler replacement with aftermarket unit), the turbo was a snap to pull/replace because I knew what I was doing.
If you do most of your own vehicle repairs, you can do this. In case your wondering, no need to pull coolant. Make sure you get your intake plumbing clamps from the turbo to the intercooler tight so you don't blow off a boot.
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